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#1
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Won a pile of 61s... a few wrong backs, very odd
Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
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Collecting vintage nodders... building 60s 70s card sets... pretty much anything SF/NY Giants
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#2
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I remain interested in this set and have done a lot of looking on ebay and elsewhere the last week. I feel a little conflicted. Here's what I mean. Over in the prewar baseball world the last few months, I have been buying 1910 T212 Obaks...about 45 total. I have bought a few ungraded ones, but I have also bought several slabbed ones. I have been cracking those babies out like a fiend! I bought a nice binder from Archival Methods and have the Obaks in tobacco sized toploaders, which fit nicely into Bowman sized pages. Those tobacco cards and the variety of back slogans look awesome in those pages in that binder! My vgex-ish 1969 Topps set is 100% ungraded in a toploader binder.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, my 1965 Topps football Tall Boy set is 100% SGC graded, and I love the uniformity of it. I honestly like the slabs in the corrugated white boxes (though I have yet to find any large enough that a lid fits over them). Also, I am about 14 cards shy of completing the '66 Topps football set. It will be all graded as well, a mixture of SGC and PSA. I bought a 110 card lot (the set has 132 cards), and it was almost all graded when I got it so I am finishing it that way. Again, I like the binder methods described above, but I also don't mind the slabs and boxes. My 1953 Topps baseball set is a compromise. The stars are slabbed, and most of the commons are ungraded. That is just ok because I can't get the set all in one place to view... Which brings me back to 1963 Fleer football. I really want nice looking cards in my set because that white looks far better when it is gleaming, bright white and not dingy. There are actually more mid-grade ungraded cards available than I first thought when I started this thread. I have had thoughts of building this set all ungraded so I can put it in a toploader binder. I know I could build a decent little set in this manner cheaper than a graded set. But, there is a big part of me that admits to really liking the slab/corrugated box method, too. It's fun lining them up alongside each other. It seems the only thing from holding me back from just going for graded is the knowledge that it would cost more. I wrestle with that in that part of me feels dumb paying more for a card just because it is slabbed. Though in some cases, the better looking ungraded cards aren't much less expensive than the slabbed ones. I try and justify it by thinking that they all have really nice cases and good protection that way, and I do like the look in some ways. But ungraded is cool, too. It's all about what makes us happy, I get it. I am not a registry guy; I do not need 9s and 10s to be happy. If I did this set graded, it would be made up of mainly 7s, with maybe a few higher if I got a deal. Anyone care to persuade me one way or the other on how to approach this because I am torn!!?? Last edited by vintagebaseballcardguy; 08-17-2017 at 06:57 PM. |
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#3
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Haven't you seen the newest Netflix original series, Robert?
"Raw is the New Graded" ![]() ![]() ![]() jeff |
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#4
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Quote:
~ Good one, Jeff! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
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#5
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Something to consider is that with the exception of 1961 Fleer (AFL & NFL), the Fleer sets were AFL only. As a new league, with fewer fans, it would be my guess that Fleer accordingly made fewer cards. It would in-turn make sense that still fewer survive in nice condition.
I collect signed AFL cards, and I can tell you that I come across vastly more signed 1960-1963 Topps cards than I do Fleer. My guess for that is that the NFL had established fans in those early years while the AFL was trying to build a following. Anyway, I was able to complete a signed 1963 Fleer set in surprisingly nice shape (ExMt - NmMt) with the exception of Charles Long, which is Good at-best. |
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