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#1
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I would take a -2 Putrid grade on a 1968 Topps Venezuelan Byron Browne or a 1972 Topps Venezuelan Jose Cardenal just to have either one.
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#2
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I'd take a 1 in Topps, OPC, or Venezuelan. The Topps and OPC are a dime a dozen, so my philosophy is why waste the money? The Venezuelans just aren't prevalent in anything more than a 2.
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#3
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It greatly depends on the card, I would buy a 1967 Ron Swoboda if it were torn in half and stapled back together.
For others, I prefer no back damage but I don't live or die by that rule. |
#4
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For VZ condition is irrelevant to me; I take what I can afford and tolerate. Everyone has their own preferences. I prefer this 64 Aaron:
to one that is complete but with a big paper pull across the back. The front is the 1964 Topps front, which I can get in a 1964 Topps card, but the back is where the difference is.
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Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... |
#5
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A 1972 Cardenal on eBay for $3
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#6
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That's a Winter League card. The card I'm referring to is the missing #87 in the second photo. Until I see proof of one I'm going to believe it doesn't exist.
Last edited by Cliff Bowman; 01-21-2018 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Missed a word |
#7
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As a very general rule of thumb, I get 5 to 10 times the topps
value for Venezuelans. OPC’s usually do 1 to 1.5x unless it is a low pop situation. At that point you can name your price. I know this does not exactly answer the original question. But It is some raw data to consider. - Greg
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EBAY STORE: ROOKIE-PARADE |
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