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#1
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I always crack a card I picked up for a set build no matter the grade or cost. I want it in it's proper place in the binder. I do have a couple dozen or so cards I've kept in their cases. Those are generally cards that I've spent a lot of time/money on, things that appear to be delicate that I want to protect or odd shaped items that would be hard to put in a binder page. I don't care about the grade or value, I just don't want to damage them in handling. A couple of examples from my Billy Pierce collection:
IMG.jpg IMG (1).jpg IMG_0010.jpg
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"When the seagulls follow the trawler, it's because they think sardines will be thrown into the sea. Thank you very much." -Eric Cantona |
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#2
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My sets are all in binders and my philosophy is, I generally keep the more expensive cards graded while cracking everything else. Cobbs, Mattys, Cy Youngs, etc., all stay graded not only for potential resale later but for their protection as well.
My sets are mostly lower grade so the lone exception is if I buy a graded card that's like a 4 or higher. In that case, I'll often keep it graded until I find a lesser card and then try to sell or trade the graded card. I've cracked a few hundred cards, mostly Authentic grades, 1s, or 2s. I fully understand that when it comes time to sell, I'm giving up some profit. But with lower grade cards, I think that's mostly negligible and I'd much rather enjoy the cards in my binders the way they are. To me, the tradeoff works.
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T205 (208/208) T206 (520/520) T207 (200/200) E90-1 (120/121) E91A/B/C (99/99) 1895 Mayo (18/48) N28/N29 Allen & Ginter (100/100) N162 Goodwin Champions (32/50) N184 Kimball Champions (38/50) Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225 www.prewarcollector.com |
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#3
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#4
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I thought this was going to be a Dwight gooden/ strawberry thread.
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Just a collector that likes to talk and read about the Hobby. 🤓👍🏼 |
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#5
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Guys, you can open an SGC case by just working a butter knife along the seam. Doesn't usually take longer than 20 seconds. Be safe!
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ThatT206Life.com |
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#6
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Quote:
Got a good laugh from this one.
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EBAY STORE: ROOKIE-PARADE |
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#7
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I say don’t crack. It helps me feel safer when I’m looking at my cards after a couple glasses of scotch or wine. Haha.
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#8
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Suppose you decide to sell these cards down the road. Do you also include the flip to show the buyer that it once was graded?
I would think that once the flip is removed, there is no proof that it belongs to the card. Therefore making the flip useless in future sales. But, if you never have plans on parting with your cards, then it really doesn't matter. |
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#9
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I crack all my cards out. I have a pile of flips somewhere but I've never done anything with them. I just enjoy my collection a lot better without the big piece of plastic and the grader's opinion.
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R Dixon |
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#10
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I crack them all out, as well. I just like to be able to touch the actual card. The slab creates a disconnect.
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https://flickr.com/photos/jcarota/albums/ |
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#11
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As a back collector, I really like having my cards in a holder that lists the back on the label. Kind of a way to see the back while looking at the front. For cards that don't have different backs, I don't need them graded.
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ThatT206Life.com |
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#12
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I don't use it, but doesn't the premium version of VCP include images with the pricing? If so, I guess you could prove it that way - showing an image of that card residing in that holder.
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#13
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Quote:
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#14
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Quote:
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Excellent people to deal with: bnorth, Republicaninmass, obcmac, marcdelpercio, Michael Peich, dougscats, jimivintage, mybuddyinc, Luke, Bocabirdman, ncinin. |
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#15
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Half of his cards (along with a large portion of his comic book collection) had been shredded, including the ‘62 Maris I wanted so desperately. Termites had all but destroyed the only thing of value he owned. I promptly went home and convinced my mom to buy me a small safe. But i’m pretty certain (safe or no safe) his cards and comics would be around today if they’d been encased in plastic. |
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#16
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Honestly do what makes you happiest. One point You can always crack out later you can’t definitely get back in the same grade holder.
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#17
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For pre-war cards, I could really care less about grading, being a low grade collector. But I like the comfort of a slabbed card. Knowing that my purchase is at least authentic.
I do send modern cards in once in a while... I have no idea why. Lol.
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George Gibson book; Available at: https://mcfarlandbooks.com/product/george-mooney-gibson My Wantlist: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...x3OXKfQMfE/pub |
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#18
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Bigger name cards I keep slabbed (Ruth, Cobb, Mathewson, Young, Johnson, etc.). Otherwise, my cards go into a binder and I keep the flip to show authentication/grade.
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Just a dad trying to figure out how to build a collection his kids will take interest in. Interests: HoF, Grover Hartley, Cleveland, Jim Thome, Jose Ramirez, Akron Zips, Historically Significant Figures Cooperstown Project Progress: 194/351 - 55.27% Follow along and see what I need here. YouTube Channel: Collecting America's Pastime |
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#19
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I honestly go back and forth on this issue. Ideally, I love the idea of raw cards laid alongside each other and/or in a binder, and I have cracked a few T212s. I suppose if a collector does sell cards that he cracked out and loses some money on them because they aren't graded, it could be seen as a trade-off for having owned and enjoyed them for many years.
However, I also do like the appearance of the T cards in SGC holders. I am not real worried about re-sale value, profit, etc. per se. However, I do allow myself to sometimes consider economic realities and the complexities of doing business in an online world. Buying and selling cards in slabs is easier. I don't like saying that, but it is true. See how I argued both sides of the issue??
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