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#1
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My take on it is this:
1. On lower value cards, most people don't give a crap about VCP. 2. When I receive offers and I respond with a reasonable counter offer, I have NEVER had anyone accept my counter offer. 3. If you really want to sell the card, in my opinion you should have taken the offer and moved on. Now you still have the card sitting in your inventory. Rick
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Rick McQuillan T213-2 139 down 46 to go. |
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#2
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You have to look at all of this from a buyer's perspective. He's hoping to get it at a steal (all of us buyers want to get things at a steal). There is probably nothing more to it. You throw an offer out there hoping the seller accepts it. When he doesn't, oh well, time to move on.
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All the cool kids love my YouTube Channel:
Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
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#3
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Quote:
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Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
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#4
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I don’t mind selling at 3% below market. But I’m sure not buying at 15% above market. That’s just stupid.
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#5
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you're ugly and your mother dresses you funny.
Just a couple of other opinions.
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Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
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#6
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If VCP average is 41, then he probably can buy it for 40. Paying 47.50 is about 15% above the average sale, so unless the card has exceptional eye appeal and centering, it makes perfect sense to pass. 7.50 was a deal breaker for you also.
On a 40-50 dollar card, I would probably make my best offer and if not accepted, move on. It is really dependent on how hard the card is to find. On more difficult to find items, I would be more willing to haggle. I think you need to realize that some people don't like to go back and forth on the price of a card. If you are going to counter-offer, you are risking losing a sale. |
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#7
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I think offering free shipping can hurt sales in some situations because the buyer thinks its free and doesn't factor it into the price of the card. Nothing is free, it's just built in. |
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#8
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Getting an offer on an item is more valuable than you think. It locks that person into a price that maybe they were not all that comfortable with. In those cases, a counteroffer, however fair and reasonable, will give the potential buyer an out. My advice is to always accept an offer you get on ebay if it is reasonable. Trying to milk the offer for a few more bucks is much more likely to lead to no sale, in my opinion.
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Galleries and Articles about T206 Player Autographs www.SignedT206.com www.instagram.com/signedT206/ @SignedT206 |
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#9
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I appreciate the viewpoint, but as a businessman I have a number I have to get to make a card profitable. Unless I screwed up and have been holding the card way to long, I do stick to that number. If a card has been in inventory forever then, yes, I do accept the first decent offer that comes along, but why bother with a card you suspect you can move at your price? Like I said I counter once and it works well for me. Of course I'm one of the weirdos who doesn't get "insulted" by low-ball offers, and frankly it's not a big deal to me if somebody fails to respond and lets an offer expire, but maybe I'm way too laid back for this business!
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Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
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#10
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Even though I try not to, I sometime flake on responding to a counter-offer. Sometimes I get an email alert that the seller sent a counter and I read it while standing in line at the store. If I'm declining, I'll plan to get on the app or my computer later, but if nothing jogs my memory, I may just forget. I'm sure it's not on purpose from all buyers.
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ThatT206Life.com |
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#11
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I'm with the others who have noted that a difference of a few bucks can make or break a deal on a relatively inexpensive card. I have changed my mind on a card after making an offer for various reasons including finding a similar, or completely different card elsewhere while waiting for a seller to respond. Had my offer been accepted I would of course pay for the card. But sending a counter can give the buyer a way out.
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Successful transactions with peter spaeth, don's cards, vwtdi, wolf441, 111gecko, Clydewally, Jim, SPMIDD, MattyC, jmb, botn, E107collector, begsu1013, and a few others. Last edited by pokerplyr80; 05-03-2018 at 02:17 PM. |
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#12
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Then you have basically answered your own question. A buyer who is likely to sell someday should never pay 15% over market because it will make it much harder to profit down the road.
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#13
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Tony I agree with you. It is frustrating. It feels as if the seller always has to be the one to give in now a days. Read some human psychology books. It's amazing how people think.
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#14
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Try a higher BIN, see if someone sends an offer that you are more likely to accept... I've seen people do that to and it works...
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Successful B/S/T deals with asoriano, obcbobd, x2dRich2000, eyecollectvintage, RepublicaninMass, Kwikford, Oneofthree67, jfkheat, scottglevy, whitehse, GoldenAge50s, Peter Spaeth, Northviewcats, megalimey, BenitoMcNamara, Edwolf1963, mightyq, sidepocket, darwinbulldog, jasonc, jessejames, sb1, rjackson44, bobbyw8469, quinnsryche, Carter08, philliesfan and ALBB, Buythatcard and JimmyC so far. |
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#15
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I don't collect VCPs, I collect baseball cards. When someone says VCP to me at one of my cases, when selling, I tell them I don't sell VCPs. If you want an avg to below avg card, keep collecting VCPs.
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
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#16
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Quote:
I had a seller give me a best and final on a Brooks RC - it was lower condition and his price was only $8 more than my offer. It was above the max amount I set in my mind. So I let the offer expire. The shipping was more than the standard $3.50 for a bubble mailer and this was factored into my offer. A day later the seller came back and made me an offer to reduce the shipping and the price would essentially be what I offered in the first place (I didn't solicit this). I felt that was fair and we got the deal done. Keep in mind that the $8 was on a card that was at least double the price of the card the OP is referring to. There are not a ton of cards that are must haves for me and if I miss out on one today there are going to be 10 more in the next two weeks. So I understand going over on special cards that don't come up often but on cards that are frequently available I often hold at my price. I also will go over my price if there is a really good eBay bucks deal or an eBay coupon for 15%. I was waiting to make a final offer on this card if eBay had a deal come through but they didn't. Last edited by Marchillo; 05-03-2018 at 08:02 AM. |
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