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#15
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I'm pretty torn on paying big money for newer graded 10s but I definitely prefer that to subbing and trying to come out ahead there. The biggest question mark I have is that there are so few straight auctions (at least compared to baseball), that the market seems to be all over the place.
I've got much less of a problem buying higher-graded vintage wrestling because I know it's unlikely that a ton of high-grade raw exists. But I get the feeling that there are a bunch of high-grade raw cards out there of the newer sets and people simply aren't bothering to send them in until prices are guaranteed to be higher. For example, several PSA 9 Ortons have been on eBay recently in the $20-$25 range. If I'm a seller with a bunch of raw ones, what's the point in sending them in to be graded, paying for the slab, shipping, waiting, etc. when I know I really need to get a 10 for it to be worthwhile? I've gone up to $50 for a few RCs that I wanted and the most expensive one I bought was a Rollins 2010 MWR for $125. That was sort of an exception because it's a rarer card that predates his WWE/FCW days and I know that, even raw, there aren't a ton of them out there. I thought that was a good buy just because the pop reports aren't likely to blow up. But I'd be hesitant to spend $200-$300 on a PSA 10 card from the 2000s until there is some more established sales history. I don't really plan on selling the cards, so I am generally fine with overpaying a little. It just seems like such an undetermined market. Do you get that sense or is it more stable in your mind?
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T205 (208/208) T206 (520/520) T207 (200/200) E90-1 (120/121) E91A/B/C (99/99) 1895 Mayo (16/48) N28/N29 Allen & Ginter (100/100) N162 Goodwin Champions (30/50) N184 Kimball Champions (37/50) Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225 www.prewarcollector.com |
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