PSA 6 vs. PSA 8(OC)

aloondilana · #1 06-19-2018, 09:06 PM

If it's the 1933 Goudey Gehrig PSA 8 OC you are talking about, I think you can't go wrong.
IMO that card should not be in an OC holder.
Goudeys have major problems with centering and that's not bad.

scooter729 · #2 06-19-2018, 09:31 PM

If it�s an older (pre-war) card, I�m likely going with the 8OC, since it�s so hard to find cards from that era with NM-MT corners. But for something 1940s-50s and newer, give me the 6, as a card with NM-MT corners are much easier from the postwar era.

ruth_rookie · #3 06-19-2018, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aloondilana

If it's the 1933 Goudey Gehrig PSA 8 OC you are talking about, I think you can't go wrong.
IMO that card should not be in an OC holder.
Goudeys have major problems with centering and that's not bad.

I�ve been watching that one as well. It�s a gorgeous card. I never buy cards with qualifiers, but I�d buy that one in a heartbeat if I didn�t already own that card.

iwantitiwinit · #4 06-20-2018, 06:45 AM

PSA 6 no question.

swarmee · #5 06-20-2018, 07:55 AM

Buy the PSA 8(OC) and submit for review down to PSA 7.

BosseFieldBoy · #6 06-20-2018, 08:30 AM

As a number of people have said, this really comes down to what you want to do with the card. If you're planning to sell it, I know the rule of thumb is that 8(oc) = 6, but, unless the card really doesn't warrant the qualifier, I have trouble getting 6 prices for an 8(oc). If you're looking to keep the card, go with eye appeal. I don't have much of a problem with a card being a little off vertically, but I can't stand horizontally off center cards.

Just my opinion and experience!

irv · #7 06-20-2018, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbyw8469

Top to bottom or vice versa is more tolerable to me than left to right centering run amok.

I'm the same.

When I first joined the site and began collecting again, I really never gave centering much thought as I assumed the way the cards came from the factory would be an accepted fault, so to speak, but like many on here now, and after reading how important centering seems to be to most people, I also now try to purchase my cards more centered when I can.

Truthfully, creases/dings/rounded corners bother me more, and still do as I know those issues were self made and not the way they came from the factory.

SMPEP · #8 06-20-2018, 10:36 AM

The issue with that card (to me) isn't the centering t/b - it's the diamond cut. Well that and the stain at the top.

But of course, I'd personally buy a psa 1 beater ... so what do I know!

Cheers,
Patrick

rats60 · #9 06-20-2018, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BosseFieldBoy

As a number of people have said, this really comes down to what you want to do with the card. If you're planning to sell it, I know the rule of thumb is that 8(oc) = 6, but, unless the card really doesn't warrant the qualifier, I have trouble getting 6 prices for an 8(oc). If you're looking to keep the card, go with eye appeal. I don't have much of a problem with a card being a little off vertically, but I can't stand horizontally off center cards.

Just my opinion and experience!

I would prefer the 8 oc. I would happily buy it at the price of a 6, but I rarely find someone willing to sell it for that price. Most of the time they want the price of a 7 or more. I can't stand cards that were abused by their previous owners, creased, worn corners, writing, etc. OC is something that comes from factory and not from abuse by collectors. Topps didn't start worrying about centering until 1987. Most of the cards they sold before that had some sort of centering issue.

Rhotchkiss · #10 06-21-2018, 07:19 AM

Below are two T206 Frank Chance, Red Portraits. One is a PSA 6 that sold in a Memory Lane auction 5/6/17 for $1,365. The other is a PSA 8(oc) that sold in a Heritage auction 5/11/17 for $1,020. Both are common backs (although the SC 350, 25 on the PSA 8(oc) is actually a pretty tough back). In my opinion, the PSA 6 is less OC than the PSA 8, but no doubt off-center, and the bottom right corner is terrible. In my opinion, the card in the (old) PSA 6 flip, really is no more than a 4. The PSA 8 card, while extremely OC, is, in my opinion, a much cleaner card, with big wide borders and sharp corners. In my opinion, the PSA 8(oc) card is superior in quality to the PSA 6.

Same card, same general sales date. HOWEVER, the PSA 6, which I think should be a 4, sold for $350 (25% times) more than the card in the PSA 8(oc) flip. Why? Because having the "oc" designation on the flip is the kiss of death for the card -- its small pox! The market despises cards with an OC on the flip.

Sure, maybe I picked a card in a vacuum. So lets look at a more objective example. Below is a PSA 8(oc) T206 Red Cobb portrait that sold in Steiner sports auction on 5/6/18 for $12,105. Also attached is a screen shot of VCP's listing for PSA 6 Red Cobbs - every one of the last 3 of which sold for more than PSA 8(oc); maybe not 25% more in every case.

Bottom line - the market place hates an "oc" flip. If someone is going to spend fairly large money on a card, seems that money is better spent on a 6 with no qualifier (even if inferior -- like Chance) than on an 8 with an "oc" on the flip.

The question of this thread is whether you would rather have a PSA 6 or a PSA 8(oc). The marketplace prefers the PSA 6. I am a pure collector and I strongly prefer the PSA 6 and would not spend a single cent on any card with an "oc" on the flip, regardless of the grade that precedes it.