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#1
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What he said and what you already have in play - grade the biggies (Over $200 value). Leave the rest.
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#2
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I just grade the key cards in my sets or as most guys call them " biggies " and the rest go into UltraPro pages and D-ring binders. Enjoy!
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#3
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I had this EXACT same situation come up a few years ago. I had a 1954 Topps set in PSA 3-5 condition, but raw. I sent in about 25 cards at first and they graded just as I expected. After I got them in hand, I realized that I kind of liked the cards better not graded. I sold the cards I had graded. 24 of the 25 cards sold for LESS than grading fees. The only one that actually made me any money was a card that somehow got a PSA 6. Even then, it only made me a few bucks. After shipping and fees and ebay fees, grading those cards amounted to about a significant loss in money.
The advice you received about grading the stars is spot on. Someone is always willing to buy a PSA 3 Jackie Robinson or Mickey Mantle. Finding a buyer willing to pay what you have into the card for a PSA 3 1953 common is a lot more difficult. Now, that being said... If you like the idea of having a complete PSA registered 1953 set and want to see that 100% on the registry, by all means go for it! Just understand that this is probably a fiscally losing proposition.
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Actively bouncing aimlessly from set to set trying to accomplish something, but getting nowhere Last edited by PowderedH2O; 08-19-2018 at 06:58 AM. Reason: typo |
#4
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Appreciate all the advice. I sent in the high value cards to be graded, and put the rest in sleeves and top holders. Just received my first 2 cards back from PSA - Mantle and Mays. Hopefully they will get the rest back to me in the next few weeks.
love these two cards! |
#5
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Great looking cards!
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#6
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Wow, both PSA 5's, nice!
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#7
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I think the question is, you got them back in two weeks? Wow.
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Successful transactions on Net54 with balltrash, greenmonster66; Peter_Spaeth; robw1959; Stetson_1883; boxcar18; Blackie |
#8
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Sweet! You will have no problem selling those when the time comes. |
#9
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Grade the "biggies" as you've done, leave the others raw. You might consider grading all the HOFers, but I would only do that if you think you can get at least 5s. So far so good.
I would not grade the commons unless you can get AT LEAST 6s or 7s. Most 50s set commons in 5s and 6s can be bought for under $20, and frequently under $10 if you're patient. From that perspective, if you grade a common from the 50s and get a 5, you're probably losing money. At a 6, it's probably a push, maybe you could make a couple bucks but that's a ton of work. 7s would normally be well worth the grading fees. Good luck with the rest of the submissions, great start with 5s on Mickey and Willie. |
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