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#1
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Fun thread...I dont buy more than a handfull of cards each year. When I do I try to focus n HOFers between 1952 through 1973. I prefer to stay in the 350 to 500 range for the best PSA 6 I can find. It seems that with the current standards a PSA 6 is a very pretty card. Centering as long as it doesn't carry an OC qualifier bother me. On regional cards like the Wilson Frank's I will settle for a PSA 4 or 5 in my price range.
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1971 Pirates Ticket Quest: 101 of 153 regular season stubs (66%), 14 of 14 1971 ALCS, NLCS , and World Series stubs (100%) If you have any 1971 Pirate regular season game stubs (home or away games) please let me know what have! 1971 Pirates Game used bats Collection 18/18 (100%) 1971 WS Full Tickets 5/7 need games 1 and 4 |
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#2
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Quote:
I would agree that 6 is a pretty nice place to play in 1960’s cards and earlier. Unless just dramatically O/C, they usually have nice corners and surface features. Most of the newer 6’s (where PSA is being tough) and some cards present like 7’s or 8’s. If you don’t mind a bit more corner wear, I also think that PSA 4’s and 4.5’s are great value for the money. It takes awhile, but you can find centered 4’s of HOFer’s from the 50’s and 60’s for a fraction of the price that some truly high or investment grade cards sell for. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
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#3
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Quote:
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#4
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Here are a couple of my favorites.
Last edited by KendallCat; 03-14-2019 at 11:05 PM. |
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#5
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David and Kieth, No matter the grades those cards are serious eye candy.
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1971 Pirates Ticket Quest: 101 of 153 regular season stubs (66%), 14 of 14 1971 ALCS, NLCS , and World Series stubs (100%) If you have any 1971 Pirate regular season game stubs (home or away games) please let me know what have! 1971 Pirates Game used bats Collection 18/18 (100%) 1971 WS Full Tickets 5/7 need games 1 and 4 |
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#6
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I love this thread. To me it represents the heart and soul of vintage collecting.
For me mid-grade is a subjective term and depends on the card. Personally I try to collect “upper” mid-grade cards. So for 1950’s as 1960’s I stay in the PSA 6-7 range. That’s my sweet spot. 8’s just seem like too expensive 7’s usually (a dash more centering) and 9’s and 10’s are unattainable unless one is highly motivated for a specific card. I honestly can rarely tell the difference between a 9 and a 10. But as I said the older the set the lower mid-grade becomes. In the way of an example I enjoy PSA 4-5’s in the 1940 Playball set. That’s my 1930’s-1940’s mid range. Last edited by swabie2424; 03-14-2019 at 11:10 PM. |
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#7
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Incredible cards. I would imagine that for a Cracker Jack Cobb, 4 may be well more than "mid-grade" among remaining examples.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
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#8
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Quote:
KC |
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#9
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Mid-grade?
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#10
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I’d say that’s the low end of high grade. But one could argue the very top of mid-grade. Obviously centering is the only real issue. No matter what ya call it, that card is bonkers! #drool
Last edited by swabie2424; 03-16-2019 at 09:41 AM. |
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#11
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Wow, those cards are the definition of eye appeal and “strong for the grade”. Thanks for sharing! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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