Scrub needing advice on a collection acquired.

[1952boyntoncollector]

Why do you include 'older' gentleman...

[amullins]

Originally Posted by 1952boyntoncollector

Why do you include 'older' gentleman...

Good question, I'll edit it.

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by 1952boyntoncollector

Why do you include 'older' gentleman...

Because he was "older" than the OP. Jake are you at that age that being called older offends you? Don't worry when you get even older it quits bothering most people. I quit getting offended years ago.

To the OP, I doubt there would be more than a few cards that grading would help. I have a whole room full of that stuff, it is super cool to look at but has very little monetary value.

Welcome back to the hobby and have fun.

[1952boyntoncollector]

Originally Posted by bnorth

Because he was "older" than the OP. Jake are you at that age that being called older offends you? Don't worry when you get even older it quits bothering most people. I quit getting offended years ago.

To the OP, I doubt there would be more than a few cards that grading would help. I have a whole room full of that stuff, it is super cool to look at but has very little monetary value.

Welcome back to the hobby and have fun.

well he changed and deleted 'older' because he agrees with me and not you lol

I just see buyers who buy collections from someone's personal collection or sellers on ebay etc say they bought it from an uncle's attic or an old guy sold them a signed ruth. We all know the age doesnt matter on authenticity or value of the product. I would also think cards in the 1980s or 1990s, the seller being 'older' wouldnt matter as well.

If someone had a ticket to a game from 1944 and claims he was there in attendance and is selling the ticket, then being 'older' may mean something though...

[swarmee]

The ones from those years that would be worth grading are normally the Hall of Fame rookie cards (plus a couple of extras) like Mattingly. Expect that if they look perfect to you, they might grade anywhere from PSA 7-10. Most modern cards are only worth grading if they attain a grade of PSA 10. Centering is an issue, so is scratching, so is foil and holograms. Corners are not the only factor. PSA has a page on their website where you can learn about what defects reduce the grade of a card.
Feel free to scan some in (like the 1983 RCs of Boggs, Gwynn, and Sandberg) and we can tell you if it makes monetary sense to pay for grading.

Look through the sets for some of the valuable errors/variations (1990 Frank Thomas no name on front, 1991 Topps Oil Can Boyd full ribbon, etc). $10 was a heck of a deal for a complete 1992 Topps Gold set.

[amullins]

Originally Posted by swarmee

The ones from those years that would be worth grading are normally the Hall of Fame rookie cards (plus a couple of extras) like Mattingly. Expect that if they look perfect to you, they might grade anywhere from PSA 7-10. Most modern cards are only worth grading if they attain a grade of PSA 10. Centering is an issue, so is scratching, so is foil and holograms. Corners are not the only factor. PSA has a page on their website where you can learn about what defects reduce the grade of a card.
Feel free to scan some in (like the 1983 RCs of Boggs, Gwynn, and Sandberg) and we can tell you if it makes monetary sense to pay for grading.

Look through the sets for some of the valuable errors/variations (1990 Frank Thomas no name on front, 1991 Topps Oil Can Boyd full ribbon, etc). $10 was a heck of a deal for a complete 1992 Topps Gold set.

I'll see what I can do about scanning them in or a photo app to network share. Google drive for instance. Every card is pristine in my opinion. So hard to distinquish if not.

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by amullins

I'll see what I can do about scanning them in or a photo app to network share. Google drive for instance. Every card is pristine in my opinion. So hard to distinquish if not.

Here is an example using the 1983 Wade Boggs cards.

Topps are $500-$600 each graded PSA 10
Fleer & Donruss are $60-$80 each graded PSA 10
Fleer & Donruss & Topps are $10-$12 each graded PSA 9
ALL can be picked up ungraded for $3-$5 each in very nice condition.

So even a rookie card of the great Mr Wade Boggs is a money loss just on grading fees unless it gets a "10".

[amullins]

Originally Posted by bnorth

Here is an example using the 1983 Wade Boggs cards.

Topps are $500-$600 each graded PSA 10
Fleer & Donruss are $60-$80 each graded PSA 10
Fleer & Donruss & Topps are $10-$12 each graded PSA 9
ALL can be picked up ungraded for $3-$5 each in very nice condition.

So even a rookie card of the great Mr Wade Boggs is a money loss just on grading fees unless it gets a "10".

Here’s what I gave thus far.. I have way more but it’s been quite a pain going through

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...jxub86iFz5A5vf

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by amullins

Here’s what I gave thus far.. I have way more but it’s been quite a pain going through

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...jxub86iFz5A5vf

You can post them directly on here very easily. Click on the little paper clip and download them from your computer. I believe the biggest they can be is around 1.2MB or you will get a error code.