Hostess panels - advice?

[darkhorse9]

I've got a complete run of Hostess sets from 1975-1979. They are all in panels trimmed to fit in three pocket sheets.

There really isn't a premium for complete boxes over panels. Nobody I know is interested in collecting the set in complete box form. Anybody who buys them will likely cut them down to panel size.

I also have a near complete run of Hostess Twinkies single cards from 1975-1977 in their complete untrimmed form.

The 1977 set is a huge challenge because six different products were included in the distribution meaning some players appear on several different size backings and some product sizes are very, very hard to find. The master set for that years numbers close to 250 total and I'm still searching for about ten of them.

[steve B]

I keep boxes as boxes if I get them that way. I used to keep them unflattened, but I think I flattened the handful I had several years ago.

I still have one of the Drakes sets in unflattened boxes.

[HistoricNewspapers]

Originally Posted by darkhorse9

I've got a complete run of Hostess sets from 1975-1979. They are all in panels trimmed to fit in three pocket sheets.

There really isn't a premium for complete boxes over panels. Nobody I know is interested in collecting the set in complete box form. Anybody who buys them will likely cut them down to panel size.

I also have a near complete run of Hostess Twinkies single cards from 1975-1977 in their complete untrimmed form.

The 1977 set is a huge challenge because six different products were included in the distribution meaning some players appear on several different size backings and some product sizes are very, very hard to find. The master set for that years numbers close to 250 total and I'm still searching for about ten of them.

Complete boxes carry a premium over complete (ungraded)panels. I've been selling/buying them for years and in the last year the boxes have commanded a nice premium. Although a graded mint 9 or 10 panel can sell for more than a complete box of the same panel...which is one main reason that prompts people to cut the boxes up.

I've had several buyers searching for only complete boxes for their sets(or player sets). Getting a complete set in complete box form is extremely hard, especially since some boxes in each year are short printed.

I have a complete 1978 set in complete box form and I am one box away from having the 1977 set in complete box form too. The other years I am still working on.

Cutting the complete boxes up make the rest of the intact boxes more rare. As someone who collects the complete boxes it is making them more expensive. Once I complete all my complete box sets, cut away

[HistoricNewspapers]

These pictured are not my boxes, but shows a sampling of the different aspects of the same panel printed on different Hostess products. It really rounds out a collection when you have examples of the different products. This is just Pete Rose from 1976 and 1978, and his 1979 Chocodiles box(which is a very rare one).

I made sure in my complete 1978 Complete box set, that I had samplings of different products throughout the set, including a few of the rare Chocodiles boxes, as it really represents the entire aspect of the Hostess cards back then.

After all, back then as a kid, the snacks were just as important as the cards

[Belfast1933]

Originally Posted by HistoricNewspapers

These pictured are not my boxes, but shows a sampling of the different aspects of the same panel printed on different Hostess products. It really rounds out a collection when you have examples of the different products. This is just Pete Rose from 1976 and 1978, and his 1979 Chocodiles box(which is a very rare one).

I made sure in my complete 1978 Complete box set, that I had samplings of different products throughout the set, including a few of the rare Chocodiles boxes, as it really represents the entire aspect of the Hostess cards back then.

After all, back then as a kid, the snacks were just as important as the cards

Always wondered what “King Dons” are… I don’t remember those as a kid at all (and they sound almost a little naughty) 😬

[darkhorse9]

Originally Posted by Belfast1933

Always wondered what “King Dons” are… I don’t remember those as a kid at all (and they sound almost a little naughty) 😬

King Dons are the same as Ding Dongs. Hostess faced a copyright issue in some parts of the country so they renamed them in the areas of conflicts.

[judsonhamlin]

Not to mention Big Wheels and the mascot even 1975 said was a bit off putting.

Originally Posted by darkhorse9

King Dons are the same as Ding Dongs. Hostess faced a copyright issue in some parts of the country so they renamed them in the areas of conflicts.

[Belfast1933]

Originally Posted by HistoricNewspapers

Complete boxes carry a premium over complete (ungraded)panels. I've been selling/buying them for years and in the last year the boxes have commanded a nice premium. Although a graded mint 9 or 10 panel can sell for more than a complete box of the same panel...which is one main reason that prompts people to cut the boxes up.

I've had several buyers searching for only complete boxes for their sets(or player sets). Getting a complete set in complete box form is extremely hard, especially since some boxes in each year are short printed.

I have a complete 1978 set in complete box form and I am one box away from having the 1977 set in complete box form too. The other years I am still working on.

Cutting the complete boxes up make the rest of the intact boxes more rare. As someone who collects the complete boxes it is making them more expensive. Once I complete all my complete box sets, cut away

Hey Brian - from an experienced point of view, do you agree that, if I already have a 3 card panel rough cut, I can cut it better/more even and give myself a better chance at a higher TPG grade, if I go that route?

If so, any tips on how to make the best cut? Maybe a sharp desk top paper cutter? Assume I would cut just outside the fake perforated lines?

Thx again - Jeff

[rdwyer]

Freshly cut...

[HistoricNewspapers]

Originally Posted by rdwyer

Freshly cut...

Great set!

[rdwyer]

I used a X-Acto blade and metal ruler with a Self-Healing Reversible Cutting Mat. (Non Slip).

https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Cuttin.../dp/B07ZQ2SV7N

[Jayworld]

Originally Posted by rdwyer

I used a X-Acto blade and metal ruler with a Self-Healing Reversible Cutting Mat. (Non Slip).

https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Cuttin.../dp/B07ZQ2SV7N

Agreed. Make sure the metal ruler has a cork back (less chance of slippage) and sharp blades on the X-Acto knife. Always cut with the ruler on the inside of the card; i.e. never cut the cards with the ruler on the outside, in case there is slippage and you cut into the cards/panel.

Of course, I'm going way against the grain, but any panels I buy I cut into single cards, or if I buy singles that have been miscut (usually miscut with extra space outside the dotted lines), I clean them up. Since I don't collect/buy graded (that's another topic), I just make the cards look as nice as possible for my collection.

[HistoricNewspapers]

Originally Posted by Belfast1933

Hey Brian - from an experienced point of view, do you agree that, if I already have a 3 card panel rough cut, I can cut it better/more even and give myself a better chance at a higher TPG grade, if I go that route?

If so, any tips on how to make the best cut? Maybe a sharp desk top paper cutter? Assume I would cut just outside the fake perforated lines?

Thx again - Jeff

If sending in for grading, definitely cut it again. When they grade those panels, they will grade every part that is present. So if you sent an entire box in for grading, and they find a crease on a flap, even if the cards on the panel are mint, it will still get hammered in the grade for that crease.

Cut it just outside the dotted lines. Don't hit the lines at all.

A guillotine type cutter may be the best bet, but I'm not an expert on cutting. That is what I would use if I were going to cut any of them.