What’s an acceptable grade for vintage cards?

[Harliduck]

Jolly called it right...the cliche collect what you love...

For me its -

80s - Mint
70s - Ex EXNMT. (5 to 7 range) mostly 6
57 to 69 - VG/EX EX (4 to 7 range) mostly 5
54 to 56 - VG to VG/EX (2 to 5 range) mostly 3
52 to 53 - G to VG (1 to 4 range) mostly 2

Hard rule - 57 up...no creases

Even though this gets brought up often, I enjoy seeing others standards...

[nolemmings]

My targets:

1970-77 MT (although nm-mt acceptable for 1971 Topps)
1960-69 NM-MT
1950-59 NM
1930-49 EX-MT
1920-29 EX
1910-19 VG-EX (although I usually seek higher--this is the floor grade)
pre 1910 VG

obviously this is just a guideline--eye appeal comes first. Also, there are issues pre-1950 and some test and regional issues thereafter that require a more flexible approach, as they are not as frequently found. Pretty much anything post-1950 topps/bowman is so readily available I don't usually deviate unless I see a card I believe to be noticeably undergraded (again, eye appeal).

EDITED TO ADD: I should say that I have so soured on graded post-war cards that I now often buy raw. In those instances, I realize that some of the 1970's cards I buy are probably unlikely to merit a "9", but I have no intention of submitting them and even less intention of paying grossly inflated prices for some flip when millions of a particular card are out there and a beautiful copy can be had far cheaper.

[packs]

Always going to depend on the card:

[steve B]

Grade? What's that?

Ok, all kidding aside, I don't limit things to any one part of the range. I have at least one that wouldn't grade (Very sticky tape adhesive residue. It's not leaving that penny sleeve anytime soon) and a few that are pretty nice, maybe mid grade, maybe better? The last few years I try to stick to maybe VG or better, but wouldn't pass up something that wasn't as long as the price was good.

[IgnatiusJReilly]

This is a fun topic. Setting aside extremely difficult sets and caveats about eye appeal, this is how it breaks down for me:

T206 - 1941 PB : 2-4 [*very* eye appeal dependent]
1948/49 Leaf - 1955 Topps : 5
1956 Topps - 1961 Topps : 6
1962 Topps - 1967 Topps : 7
1968 Topps - 1977 Topps: 8
1978 Topps - 1986 Topps: 9
1987 Topps - Current: 9-10

Of course there are tons of exceptions blah, blah, blah, but if I were to coarse grain average over my collection this is what would come out. I don't have the nicest collection but I think the cost-benefit balance is struck well for me with that breakdown.

[G1911]

P-vg+, raw. Any higher than that, and I’d be happier with a lower grade card that brings me the exact same joy as a card with sharp corners, and pocket the cost difference. Cards I have in nicer condition are always available for downgrading. Cards in slabs are cracked out or flipped for the same card without a case that costs far less for the exact same thing.

[homerunderby]

I'll go EX to EXMT for 50's and 60's, VG or better pre-war. Mostly raw unless I get a deal on a slab (which I promptly break out of the slab so I can display it in my binders).

Sometimes I'll tolerate even P-F for rarities like 1964 Topps Venezuelan.

I only collect Yankees.

[rugbymarine]

Originally Posted by IgnatiusJReilly

This is a fun topic. Setting aside extremely difficult sets and caveats about eye appeal, this is how it breaks down for me:

T206 - 1941 PB : 2-4 [*very* eye appeal dependent]
1948/49 Leaf - 1955 Topps : 5
1956 Topps - 1961 Topps : 6
1962 Topps - 1967 Topps : 7
1968 Topps - 1977 Topps: 8
1978 Topps - 1986 Topps: 9
1987 Topps - Current: 9-10

Of course there are tons of exceptions blah, blah, blah, but if I were to coarse grain average over my collection this is what would come out. I don't have the nicest collection but I think the cost-benefit balance is struck well for me with that breakdown.

This is close to my thoughts. I tend to aim a little lower in some areas (Pre-war) and maybe higher elsewhere with specific cards.

I have another general guideline that I follow: I aim for the NICEST looking card I can afford between $100 - $250. For most cards in the era I collect the most (post-war vintage), that means there's a nice range of grades/condition that I can look for. I'm even fine buying a lower grade card if I think it looks nice than the one I already have. This price range does not apply to key cards to your collection (Ruth, Jackie, Mantle, pre-war, most HOF RC before 1960,.....you get the idea).

As much as I can, before I buy, or aggressively bid on, a card, I'll ask myself, "In a year, will I want to upgrade this card?" If the answer to that question is anything but definitely NOT, I usually won't go for the card. It's kind of hard to explain, but I guess that's why this question has so many different answers.

[Bestdj777]

I generally shoot for a PSA 1 or PSA A or ungraded.