What�s an acceptable grade for vintage cards?

nolemmings · #1 10-05-2021, 02:25 PM

My targets:

1970-77 MT (although nm-mt acceptable for 1971 Topps)
1960-69 NM-MT
1950-59 NM
1930-49 EX-MT
1920-29 EX
1910-19 VG-EX (although I usually seek higher--this is the floor grade)
pre 1910 VG

obviously this is just a guideline--eye appeal comes first. Also, there are issues pre-1950 and some test and regional issues thereafter that require a more flexible approach, as they are not as frequently found. Pretty much anything post-1950 topps/bowman is so readily available I don't usually deviate unless I see a card I believe to be noticeably undergraded (again, eye appeal).

EDITED TO ADD: I should say that I have so soured on graded post-war cards that I now often buy raw. In those instances, I realize that some of the 1970's cards I buy are probably unlikely to merit a "9", but I have no intention of submitting them and even less intention of paying grossly inflated prices for some flip when millions of a particular card are out there and a beautiful copy can be had far cheaper.

packs · #2 10-05-2021, 03:07 PM

Always going to depend on the card:

steve B · #3 10-05-2021, 03:32 PM

Grade? What's that?

Ok, all kidding aside, I don't limit things to any one part of the range. I have at least one that wouldn't grade (Very sticky tape adhesive residue. It's not leaving that penny sleeve anytime soon) and a few that are pretty nice, maybe mid grade, maybe better? The last few years I try to stick to maybe VG or better, but wouldn't pass up something that wasn't as long as the price was good.

IgnatiusJReilly · #4 10-05-2021, 05:25 PM

This is a fun topic. Setting aside extremely difficult sets and caveats about eye appeal, this is how it breaks down for me:

T206 - 1941 PB : 2-4 [*very* eye appeal dependent]
1948/49 Leaf - 1955 Topps : 5
1956 Topps - 1961 Topps : 6
1962 Topps - 1967 Topps : 7
1968 Topps - 1977 Topps: 8
1978 Topps - 1986 Topps: 9
1987 Topps - Current: 9-10

Of course there are tons of exceptions blah, blah, blah, but if I were to coarse grain average over my collection this is what would come out. I don't have the nicest collection but I think the cost-benefit balance is struck well for me with that breakdown.

G1911 · #5 10-05-2021, 05:54 PM

P-vg+, raw. Any higher than that, and I�d be happier with a lower grade card that brings me the exact same joy as a card with sharp corners, and pocket the cost difference. Cards I have in nicer condition are always available for downgrading. Cards in slabs are cracked out or flipped for the same card without a case that costs far less for the exact same thing.

homerunderby · #6 10-05-2021, 08:59 PM

I'll go EX to EXMT for 50's and 60's, VG or better pre-war. Mostly raw unless I get a deal on a slab (which I promptly break out of the slab so I can display it in my binders).

Sometimes I'll tolerate even P-F for rarities like 1964 Topps Venezuelan.

I only collect Yankees.

thatkidfromjerrymaguire · #7 10-06-2021, 11:17 AM

For me, EX is the perfect condition for postwar cards....they are crease free, mark free, and typically have good overall eye appeal...and can be found cheaper (and more easily) then NM versions of the same card.

But, when it comes to vintage cards, pretty much ANYTHING goes. There is a sizable market for ALL grades. Unlike modern where nobody really seems to want anything less than NM or Mint, there are enough low grade collectors in the market that you can typically sell/trade anything you decide to part with if you change your focus, direction, etc.

rugbymarine · #8 10-06-2021, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IgnatiusJReilly

This is a fun topic. Setting aside extremely difficult sets and caveats about eye appeal, this is how it breaks down for me:

T206 - 1941 PB : 2-4 [*very* eye appeal dependent]
1948/49 Leaf - 1955 Topps : 5
1956 Topps - 1961 Topps : 6
1962 Topps - 1967 Topps : 7
1968 Topps - 1977 Topps: 8
1978 Topps - 1986 Topps: 9
1987 Topps - Current: 9-10

Of course there are tons of exceptions blah, blah, blah, but if I were to coarse grain average over my collection this is what would come out. I don't have the nicest collection but I think the cost-benefit balance is struck well for me with that breakdown.

This is close to my thoughts. I tend to aim a little lower in some areas (Pre-war) and maybe higher elsewhere with specific cards.

I have another general guideline that I follow: I aim for the NICEST looking card I can afford between $100 - $250. For most cards in the era I collect the most (post-war vintage), that means there's a nice range of grades/condition that I can look for. I'm even fine buying a lower grade card if I think it looks nice than the one I already have. This price range does not apply to key cards to your collection (Ruth, Jackie, Mantle, pre-war, most HOF RC before 1960,.....you get the idea).

As much as I can, before I buy, or aggressively bid on, a card, I'll ask myself, "In a year, will I want to upgrade this card?" If the answer to that question is anything but definitely NOT, I usually won't go for the card. It's kind of hard to explain, but I guess that's why this question has so many different answers.

Bestdj777 · #9 10-06-2021, 01:02 PM

I generally shoot for a PSA 1 or PSA A or ungraded.

Popcorn · #10 10-06-2021, 09:15 PM

I�m cool with beaters. Never been a condition snob.

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