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#1
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Pick your player(s) and set(s) first.,...
One idea, Do the best you can with T206 Cobbs.... IF you buy them right, I think they are as blue chip as anything. I bought one of these 3 yrs ago, and 2 of them 1 yr ago, and feel they have all appreciated. .
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 10-21-2022 at 06:18 PM. |
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#2
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With my limited experience and knowledge, a Cobb T206 would probably be my first choice due to liquidity, popularity, and fit right in with my own T206 collection.
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#3
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T206 Red Cobb with Old Mill back and a 1952 Topps Eddie Mathews.
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#4
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The best and most presentable low grade 1914 Cracker Jack HOF player that you can get…maybe Wagner.
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#5
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Stick with a main-stream issue of the big names listed above, do not buy a regional or odd-ball issue. Also, do not buy a card with issues, no matter the grade. No one likes qualifiers or cards with obvious distractions.
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#6
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52 Topps Jackie Robinson centered. I think this card will continue to close the gap to Mantle as the years go by.
52 Topps Mays would be my second choice. |
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#7
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I agree about the Jackie. It's my favorite card. Unfortunately though, there have only ever been 9 dead centered copies without creases of the 52 Jackie to ever surface on VCP out of over 1,000 copies sold despite it being "double printed". I'd settle for a "good enough" copy of you can get one at a decent price.
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#8
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The Jackie is a beautiful card, but I am surprised it's as prized as it is, being only a 4th or 5th year card depending on your definition with plenty of earlier cards, and aside from people looking for perfect centering, not at all hard to find.
__________________
Four phrases I have coined that sum up today's hobby: No consequences. Stuff trumps all. The flip is the commoodity. Animal Farm grading. Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 10-23-2022 at 11:23 AM. |
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#9
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My choices would be a nice T206 Cobb, The best 33 goudey ruth you can find for the money or a 51 Bowman Mantle.
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#10
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My initial short list:
Cobb Bat Off Cobb Portrait 51 Bowman Mantle 51 Bowman Mays Then, there's the more scare/rare items (early Cobb, Ruth, others) |
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#11
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I don't think there is any way to predict the future value of cards with any accuracy. So, buy what you like to look at, especially since you'll have them for a minimum of five years.
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#12
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I too think the T206 cobb approach is ideal. Especially if you can get a nice 2 or 3 graded green portrait. Otherwise I think The Goudey Ruth is a close second.
Bill
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-------------------------------------------------------------- My Cards - https://www.flickr.com/photos/192293172@N05/albums |
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#13
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+1 my thoughts exactly.
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#14
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Phil yeah, but relatively speaking it seems a pretty safe bet that Ruth and Cobb are going to hold or increase value better than, say, Dizzy Dean or Arky Vaughan, just common sense. One need not be a complete nihilist about this.
__________________
Four phrases I have coined that sum up today's hobby: No consequences. Stuff trumps all. The flip is the commoodity. Animal Farm grading. |
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#15
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No doubt, assuming were in the Big 5 pre war and Mantle/Mays market. I would invest in cards I like to look at within that group like a 21 Exhibits Ruth as opposed to a strip card or Sanella.
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#16
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Ruth. Period. End of discussion. Which one is up to you.
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Four phrases I have coined that sum up today's hobby: No consequences. Stuff trumps all. The flip is the commoodity. Animal Farm grading. |
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#17
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Quote:
Great centering and eye appeal on those Leon. Congrats! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#18
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This isn’t much in terms of advice, but since no one else has mentioned it:
Buy what you like! Whatever will bring you joy and make you a little bit happier every time you see it or think about having it in your collection. In my humble opinion, that should be your primary focus when buying cards, particularly nice ones that cost a lot of money. If you’re hoping to make money on it, then that’s just a nice side effect, and icing on the cake. But also somewhat unpredictable, even with the excellent suggestions and hopes and dreams that others have suggested here. You might make some money on it, and you might not. But your personal enjoyment should be something that you can predict with much more confidence.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
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#19
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Quote:
__________________
Four phrases I have coined that sum up today's hobby: No consequences. Stuff trumps all. The flip is the commoodity. Animal Farm grading. |
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#20
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Upon further review…
Since only one other person has mentioned it, and even then only somewhat briefly… Buy what you like!
__________________
Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
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#21
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I think Peter is right. I might buy the nicest 1921 Ruth exhibit I could get for the money. I would also look at Old Judge HOFers with sharp images. I would pay up for a King Kelly or Ed Delahanty with a sharp image. Especially in that condition they are scarce and I believe undervalued.
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#22
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Quote:
__________________
Four phrases I have coined that sum up today's hobby: No consequences. Stuff trumps all. The flip is the commoodity. Animal Farm grading. Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 10-21-2022 at 07:34 PM. |
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#23
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This type of question has been asked for the past 20 years in this forum (and its predecessor). The answer is always exactly the same because people are predictable.
Not many will venture beyond the most commonly collected sets… so T206, Goudey, Cracker Jack, etc Not many will venture beyond the most commonly collected players… so Ruth, Cobb, Gehrig, Joe Jackson, Wagner, etc Put them together and you will have the answer to your question.
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Check out my YouTube Videos highlighting VINTAGE CARDS https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbE..._as=subscriber ebay store: kryvintage-->https://www.ebay.com/sch/kryvintage/...p2047675.l2562 |
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#24
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Quote:
Hence why I have even contemplated spreading the 15K around and picking off 5, 10, even 20 cards that appeal to me, am actively trying to persue to complete projects, etc. Investment isn't the end all here, but I would hope that something beautiful, rare and in demand would appreciate. |
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#25
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Quote:
If I were you, I’d take some time to ponder what you want to have on your list. Make it as long or as short as you like, and start with the stuff at the top of the list. There’s no right or wrong answers here. It’s your list, not mine, or anyone else’s. It sounds like you might even have a pretty good list already, and maybe you just need to decide which items are the most important on that list. Then it’s just a question of quality or quantity. Do you buy just one item for your $15k that is the nicest you can afford? Or do you spread it around and buy 10 or 20 items from your list that are lower quality? In some ways, that might be just as important a question to figure out. And if you’re looking to invest for a return, there are good arguments for both sides. But I would argue for buying one piece that is the nicest that you can afford with your budget, particularly if you’re going to buy popular players from popular issues.
__________________
Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
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#26
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Quote:
__________________
Four phrases I have coined that sum up today's hobby: No consequences. Stuff trumps all. The flip is the commoodity. Animal Farm grading. |
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#27
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Quote:
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#28
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Extremely nice looking cards for the grades assigned!
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#29
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2-3 high graded willie mays cards… if pre war is your thing I’d get a few cobbs. Can’t go wrong with mr Cobb.
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