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#1
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My immediate response to this scenario (has happened a few times) is that the winner was a shill in cahoots with the seller and the price was unfairly run up. Someone "accidentially won" and there was an "oh shit" moment. Depending on the circumstances (partucular AH, etc.) I could be convinced otherwise.
My fraud antenna would be up big time if I was contacted 20 minutes after the auction ended. And that has happened on eBay. That's real fishy. (Somehow seller already knows that 20 minutes later that this is a non-payment situation?) I'd day most of the time I walk away from these situations. Wait for the next one. Last edited by Snapolit1; 11-30-2023 at 10:19 AM. |
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#2
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On the other hand as someone who sold a lot of cards in the early years of eBay. If I had multiples of the card I would always offer all the bidders at or above the price I would sell it for a chance at buying one. Sometimes I still do. In my experience it is about 50 50 on if they buy it from a second chance offer. I have very little AH experiance. |
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#3
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Given this example with $100 bidding increments and you are the underbidder (Bidder 2):
Bidder 1 - $5000 Bidder 2 - $4900 Bidder 3 - $4000 I am sure the AH will contact you and ask if you are willing to pay the $4900....but if Bidder 1 bowed out...then really you should be getting it at $4100...which is what I would negotiate for. Whether or not you are successful could obviously sway your decision. |
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#4
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__________________
Current Wantlist: E92 Nadja - Bescher, Chance, Cobb, Donovan, Doolan, Dougherty, Doyle (with bat), Lobert, Mathewson, Miller (fielding), Tinker, Wagner (throwing), Zimmerman E/T Young Backrun - Need E90-1 E92 Red Crofts - Anyone especially Barry and Shean |
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#5
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Don't you guys mean $4000, instead of $4100????
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#6
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I think with the bid increment rule, if bidder 3 is at $4,000, then the next highest bid would need to be at $4,100.
__________________
Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
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#7
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Only had it happen once.
It was an eBay auction. The seller had another one of the same player, same issue, same grade, and offered it to me for my final bid. It was a price that worked for me, and so I went for it. Given that they were two different certs, I was less paranoid about getting played. And given that the price was 3 figures and not 4 or 5, I wasn’t too paranoid about some shill just taking me for a ride.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
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#8
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#9
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We have only done it once or twice when a higher end item went unpaid. Of course at that point it's at least several weeks after the auction when collection efforts have failed, but we don't like to do it as the optics of it aren't good for reasons already shared in this thread.
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Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
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#10
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By auction law if you are removing a bidder you have to remove all of their bids, not just their last bid, which leaves you with the third place bidder scenario, but I see the point about the psychology of bidding.
__________________
Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
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