Curious...when did "7" become the slab "cutoff"?

[hcv123]

My opinion is the 7 level for most (some exceptions- 52 topps topping the list) post war collectors seems to be the highest more "affordable" grade. I am sure given the option anyone would want the best condition possible. So possible translates into realistically afordable.

Regarding pre war and certain test and food issues I would have to say your "7" theory is out the window.

That said I agree strongly with Johhny that the one thing consistent with graded cards is their inconsistency. It is amazing to me HOW inconsistent some of the grading is. So you could certainly find lower graded cards with more incredible eye appeal than higher ones. One example - I own a 1968 3d Clemente - It is near perfect EXCEPT for a tiny pin hole (It is hard to see from the front and more easily given away on the back.) Take the pinhole away and I'd say it's an easy 7-8. PSA policy - any pinhole or staple hole and the card is a PSA 1. So I have a PSA 1 that 98% looks like a 7-8 that I bought for a fraction of the price of a 7-8. Just my 2 cents.

[JasonL]

Personally, I find that PSA 7 for post-war collecting is where I find the most consistently appealing cards at affordable pricing (relative to what happens at the PSA 8 through 10 levels).

I find the PSA 6-and-under population, in general, to have too much variability in eye appeal (and slightly less grading consistency if I had to generalize).

I find the eye appeal and card quality found in PSA 8 thru 10 to be consistently high, although (usually) not materially different enough from a PSA 7 for me to warrant the drastically increased prices.

After all, when I started collecting, there was NM and then Mint. So I find the PSA 8 to be a bit of a bastard child of the 9 and the PSA 10 to be, well, just marketing. Hence, I like 7s and 9s. Which is really weird, because my favorite number and my uniform number has always been....8

[4815162342]

Originally Posted by hcv123

My opinion is the 7 level for most (some exceptions- 52 topps topping the list) post war collectors seems to be the highest more "affordable" grade. I am sure given the option anyone would want the best condition possible. So possible translates into realistically afordable.

Regarding pre war and certain test and food issues I would have to say your "7" theory is out the window.

That said I agree strongly with Johhny that the one thing consistent with graded cards is their inconsistency. It is amazing to me HOW inconsistent some of the grading is. So you could certainly find lower graded cards with more incredible eye appeal than higher ones. One example - I own a 1968 3d Clemente - It is near perfect EXCEPT for a tiny pin hole (It is hard to see from the front and more easily given away on the back.) Take the pinhole away and I'd say it's an easy 7-8. PSA policy - any pinhole or staple hole and the card is a PSA 1. So I have a PSA 1 that 98% looks like a 7-8 that I bought for a fraction of the price of a 7-8. Just my 2 cents.

Post a pic?

[Leon]

I understand a bit about post war and agree that the NMT grades are a sweet spot...once you go to an 8 the difference in appeal isn't that great and the price goes up by mulitples most times.

For pre-war I have always said the best bang for your buck is a 6....as from there to a 7 goes up exponentially in price and there isn't a big difference in eye appeal. When I was doing the HOF rookie collecting, 7 was the number I went for, for post war.....

[wilkcards]

I'm collecting 52 topps in PSA 7+ and personally it's because 6s usually looks like crap to me. Sometimes there are nice looking psa 6 cards, but they're usually further off-center than I like. Also, if I decide to sell them there is room for profit or to at least get my money back. Too much goes to fees on a $20 card.
Also, I feel it would be too easy to get the set in PSA 6.

PSA 7, or better baby!

[fkw]

At arms length a 7 will look just like a 9, but will cost over 75% less.

What would the smart collector collect??




IMO collectors who ONLY want 8 and above are in it for the status of having the best card/set, etc. There are many a 7 that look just as good as any 8 or 9 for a fraction of the cost.

[sportsamerica]

I also think there needs to be talks about investment or collectible.

I also like to purchase 7's, as I find them more affordable and nicer (there are some ugly 7's though). I try to use this as a gauge:

1950's - 7's
1960's - 8's
1970's current 9's

That is what I see as "best buys" for the money...

[JasonL]

mine targets are one grade below yours
For my budget, I target:
1950s = PSA 6
1960s = PSA 7
1970s = PSA 8
1980s+ - PSA 9