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#1
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#2
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It's safer for a grading company to assign a slightly smaller card an Authentic grade, because if they give it a numerical one and it turns out to be trimmed, they would have to reimburse the buyer. That's assuming they honor the buyback.
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#3
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#4
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There's no rhyme or reason when the grading companies hand out A as a grade -- they are simply not consistent even when grading within a specific issue. For example, the 1910 Orange Borders set (along with many other hand-cut issues) are sometimes numerically graded and sometimes simply assigned an "A" grade. And if you have a jagged looking hand-cut card which received a grade of a 10, can't you just trim it yourself to get it to 80? After all, it was initially trimmed when it was hand-cut in the first place. The "A" grade should be used solely for altered cards and another designated grade given solely to hand-cut cards. If a card is too short but not deemed to be altered, then give it a grade with a qualifier, or, in SGC's case, at least some notation on the flip.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/calvindog/sets Last edited by calvindog; 05-13-2010 at 11:12 AM. |
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#5
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See? Lots of good alternatives. J Last edited by jmk59; 05-13-2010 at 12:06 PM. |
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#6
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First of all I have always felt that ALL W cards which are true strip cards should all get the "handcut" notation. That right there would satisfy most of the issue (for me) with grading them. That being said I have been told that it is the amount of border on strip cards that will warrant an AUT vs a numerical grade. The Chase Orange Borders above should not have been given a numerical grade imo. The W555's have enough border to be given their grades (again, to me they should all still have the "handcut" qualifier) regards
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 05-13-2010 at 12:27 PM. Reason: didn't notice the other OB had an AUT |
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#7
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I wouldn't be against this qualifier, say graded 'A'-MS. It would be nice to get a little more info on the flip.
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