Advice on purchasing multi-signed baseballs

[perezfan]

Originally Posted by glchen

Hi, I'm new to this part of the forum. I typically just buy cards, but I'm considering expanding my collection to pick up a few baseballs too. In particular, I'm looking for a Ruth signed ball at a reasonable price.

Single signed balls seem to be much more expensive, so I'd be satisfied with a multi-signed ball with Ruth as long as the signature is fairly clear.

Is there any advice that experienced collectors have on this? I've read some of the threads, which say that single signed is much more expensive than multi-signed, and that I should purchase a UV cube to store it in and avoid light when possible. One of the questions I have is regarding how do you know whether the ball is reasonably priced. For cards, there is VCP, so you know roughly what you should be paying for the card. There doesn't seem to be the same thing for balls, although there is SMR pricing for single signed. Any other advice on this would be great. Thanks!

(Oh, and I would only purchase a ball that is authenticated by JSA or PSA/DNA and not STAT, etc, so I know about that.)

Yes- stick with Balls authenticated by Spence and/or PSA. I agree that a multi-signed ball is a more economical way to go, and there are many attractive options....

Yankees team ball
Braves team ball
HOF Induction Ball
Tour of Japan Ball
Misc. Stars signed ball

As far as the "reasonably priced" question, you simply have to educate yourself as much as possible...

Hunt's, Lelands, REA, and Legendary all have excellent auction archives. Type in the key word "Ruth", and it will pull up all the balls he has signed (both SS and multi-signed). Then you can see what similar pieces have sold for in past auctions. The economy is still floundering, so you should be able to get something nice at about 20% lower than 5 years ago.

You can also check ebay sales for more recent results (check actual completed auctions- not the dealers' ridiculous asking prices). This should give you an indication of value, and the quality to expect for the price you have in mind. The more you educate yourself, the better... and don't make an impulsive decision.

A final word of advice... don't opt for the cheapest one. Down the road, you'll regret it (and will ultimately want to upgrade). It's currently a "Buyer's Market" so use this time to acquire something nice... at the top end of what you think you can afford. Once the bug has bitten you (and you feel compelled to upgrade), it can be tough to unload your old item without losing money.

Hope this is helpful,
Mark