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#1
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My assumption is that a seller that lists a card for multiples (2x,3x) of what a card typically sells for is likely rarely offended. He/she is looking for an uniformed buyer. When you make a reasonable offer they know you are not one. If a reasonable offer is half the BIN price so what.
Last edited by HRBAKER; 09-03-2010 at 11:34 AM. |
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#2
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So what do you offer/do when it seems like the BIN is 4X what it should be?
If you offer 50% it's still like you are paying twice what you should......I hope that made sense ![]() Clayton |
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#3
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You offer what you are willing to pay for it as long as it is reasonable. An unreasonable listing price does not drive up or raise the value of the card.
Last edited by HRBAKER; 09-03-2010 at 11:44 AM. |
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#4
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Thanks Jeff- maybe you or someone can help me here- what would be a reasonable offer for a Bob Ganley T206 graded V/G-E/X 4 ?
Just curious-thanks. Clayton Last edited by teetwoohsix; 09-03-2010 at 11:50 AM. Reason: correction |
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#5
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Not Jeff, but $70 - $75 would be reasonable.
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#6
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Quote:
I have a few cards listed at very high prices as compared to their last sales prices simply because I had bought them when the market was higher and I only want to sell them if I get my money back. There aren't a lot of these cards listed and some collector might be willing to pay my price in order to snag the card regardless of the last sales price. I frankly think the last sales price for many cards is worthless and people put too much into VCP. Common T206s are different for sure because they are common cards. |
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#7
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Quote:
Tom, I understand what you are saying. If you can get your $ back fine, if you can't you will sit on it for awhile. I have been told many times when I have made an offer on a card, "I have more than that in it." To me that's irrelevant if you want to sell it to me. Your example also says a "few" cards not a few hundred for several months/years, etc.
Last edited by HRBAKER; 09-03-2010 at 11:52 AM. |
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#8
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Quote:
I hear ya. Us sellers are just telling you why we can't drop the price. I guess I would rather explain why I can't drop the price rather than just answer "No". I actually like to put an autodecline in at the level at which I won't go below so that I don't have to say anything.
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#9
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Quote:
I hear you too. When I swap it kills me to get less than I have in something in value but I have done it. |
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#10
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We all do, Jeff. However, there is surely a limit to how much one will leave on the table. I think we would all agree to that and that thinking is the basis for many prices that might seem high in a given market. Not all, but many.
Last edited by GoSoxBoSox; 09-03-2010 at 12:04 PM. Reason: typo |
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#11
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Thanks Anthony. That sounds about right-I appreciate your response.
Sincerely,Clayton |
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#12
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I'm not a dealer trying to make a profit so if I want to sell a card I normally just list it with the BIN set at whatever I paid for it so I can break even and take the guesswork out of the process. Pretty much the only time I use the best offer option is when I know I overpaid for a card and I'm trying to see if someone is willing to give me at least something close to what I have in it.
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#13
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You may be a rarity Doug- it seems like most of the BIN's on cards I look up are usually priced 3-4X above what they are really worth.
Of course, I don't expect a seller to go through all of the trouble to make 0 off the whole thing- but when the seller will only come down 4 or 5 dollars from an outrageously high BIN, it is a turn off and I would likely look elsewhere at that point. Clayton |
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#14
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Quote:
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#15
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Its common for me to make offers of about 50% of the BIN price.
Believe it or not its accepted quite often. That means sellers are way overpriced and they know it. |
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