Approach to Building Sets

[HaloFan]

I have started quite a few sets, but I have not completed many of them. With the '38 Goudey, and '54-55 Topps Hockey sets I bought the cards one at a time occasionally buying a star when I had extra $$$ as I saw them for sale. Those sets are smaller so you don't see multiple cards offered for sale together very often. The hockey I did in high grade, so I was fairly picky about condition. With the '57 Topps set, I bought a bunch of lots and slowly picked up stars if I saw a good deal. That set I wanted cheap, so I have some beaters in there. The '55 Topps set I started in the 90s when I was still in high school but have had trouble focusing on completing it. I picked it because it was only 206 cards, but that's actually a lot if you want it high grade and have to spend $10-$30 a common. I'm about 70% there, but I don't have the Clemente, Koufax and most of the stars from that set. I probably won't be obtaining them anytime soon due to budget issues. The frustration with the 55s is why I chose to build the '57 in off-condition. I've started the '53s as well focusing on the stars first so I have the Mantle. I'm also doing this set on the cheap. It's a set I'm trying a different approach.
Some of the guys on this board complete the common Topps sets fairly quick, but for me it can take years. With the '57, I took about 2-3 years, the hockey and Goudey took me 13-15 years. At my rate the 55s will take me 30+.

Craig

[Tim Fritz]

Welcome back to collecting and few thoughts from a fellow set collector.

I would agree with buying non-graded in bulk on ebay. I have gotten some great deals over the years this way. If you then want them graded you can always do that yourself. One person above wrote about writing down where you bought cards and what you paid for them. I really wish I would have done more of that.

I normally try to get my sets in VG and above and upgrade the VG from there. Trading away my doubles after upgrading while working on other sets. It's also a great way to meet other collectors that share your passion.

I've never figured out a great way of displaying my collection. I store mine in individual semi-regid and regid sleeves and then in boxes. I like this because if I only have 5-10 minute to thumb through some cards I don't need to pull out a whole binder. If I want to look at everything I just pull out the box, which isn't much larger than a binder.

I also second the '53 Topps set. By far my favorite of the 50s, but to each his own. The biggest drawback from that set is the lack of some HOFs like Ted Williams, Snider, Musial, etc...

[mintacular]

1. From a financial standpoint you will save a lot of $ buy buying a large "starter" lot, from there you can have fun cherry picking stars, high #'s, and upgrades

2. Make sure you pinpoint very closely on the grade you are HAPPY with and also the set that really motivates you...I correctly started building '57 but in the beginning ignored centering, and now, I am having to upgrade my o/c cards.

3. I like buying raw card commons as the price of grading fees usually gets rolled in to the sales price and I think it's silly to pay $10-15 for a graded EX-MT common rather than $5 for a raw one, which I like to be able to put into my vinyl sheets/binder anyway. For $100+ cards I like the added security of buying graded.

4. I would go with '56s of the ones you listed due to the background action shot and think it is a step up on the '55s which have a plain background. I personally would be satisfied with just the Koufax and Clemente and don't need the other 200+ cards...Make sure you want to spend money on several hundred commons, or could you be satisfied just buying stars/cards you like from that set? Do you want to pay $20/ea for high # '55s?, etc?

5. I prefer the standard card size of post '56 cards and find the cards fit well into my vinyl sheets. The larger cards go in 8 pocket sheets. In these, I feel like the cards are a bit loose and wiggly around and that is one of many reasons I am not building '52-56 sets

[novakjr]

Well, the approach to buying a graded set is gonna be completely different than raw. You'll probably find less lots.. Unless you get them graded yourself. If you're gonna document the entire process, it might be interesting to document the process of picking out the high grade cards, whether it be on ebay or this board or shows, with before and after photos of the cards. Be sure to document any upgrades and downgrades. Sometimes downgrades are necessary to complete a high grade set. Say you've got a 9 of a very desirable card, but may be willing to sell and downgrade to an 8, in order to fund other cards. Or the instance of trading said 9 to someone in exchange for an 8 of the same card, plus others. My dad used that last maneuver a couple of times while building his '54 Bowman football. Also, as you do this, eye appeal will play a factor, beyond the numbers. All 8's are not the same(same goes for every number). Sometimes, you may just not be happy with a certain card, and move it, to exchange for a better looking card of the same grade(sometimes even lower)..That's about all I can think of for right now.

Keep in mind the grade numbers I used are arbitrary, and can be swapped with any desired grade.

Now to the set selection. I've noticed a few recommendations of the '53 Topps. It's a nice set. '53 Bowman Color would be a nice choice as well, which could possibly lead to a larger set of the original Bowman run('48-'55), and would be far more realistic and affordable than doing the same with a Topps run..

[Matthew80]

Thanks for all the thoughtful and helpful feedback! I think I'm going to go the creative route and build a display case for my graded sets. Jeff, I like the idea of rotating sets in and out of one case rather than have several around the home. I also don't think I would ever build a collection of graded cards that exceeded 350 or so. That and the Mrs. would kill me...

I think I'm going to stick to the graded as opposed to raw. I don't know much about buying raw cards in regards to grading, and I have a feeling I'd make bad purchases; perhaps I could try this down the road. I also think the casing of the major grading companies are all down well and add a level of beauty to the cards. From auction watching, I realize the added expense... Generally, I'd rather have 1 graded set v 2 non-graded sets.

In answer to mintacular, I--for now--am content buying several hundred graded commons. I'm estimating I could get 4 or 5s for about $5-6/per (?), which would mean $1600-1700 for 300 1956 commons. I'm fine doing that over a few years time. I don't want to ever collect a set where commons cost me $10+!

And so much for sticking to one set at a time... I'm just too anxious, so I think I'll start with 2 or 3. The slow frequency of my buying should permit that.

I think I've been won over on the '53 set. The artwork is just breathtaking! Hope I don't have to bid for any of them against all you fans

I think I'm going to set up a blog of some sort and record just about everything related to my experience. I'll share it with everyone when it's up, if anyone's interested.

Thanks. I have a few other questions, but I'll save them for a new thread later. This has been a big help.

[mintacular]

I'd be very surprised if you can find decent mid-grade '53s even VGEX ones for $4-5 in graded form, unless you get lucky and buy a huge lot that flies under the radar. Keep in mind that most VGEX-EX-EX+ graded cards cost the seller nearly $10 to get graded and very few are willing to take a lost and sell them at $5/ea.

That said, you can get the very same card in raw form for possibly $5 range...Also, I think it is somewhat silly to be buying mid-grade cards in TPG holders. In general, the point of having a card encased in plastic is that it is in exceptional quality and should be slabbed (for post-war cards anyway) or is a highly counterfeited issue that you simply want verification of its authenticity. OR you see a card in a TPG that has a technical mid-grade card that is actually much better quality (eye appeal) but can be had at the numerical grade average.

In short, I would argue that you should continue to bat around thoughts and opinions of people here, then dive in, and at worse, change later but at least gave it very considered thought before making a final decision.

As for 53s, it's a very strong set. I would say that the high #'s will cost you a pretty penny (they book $100 in NM) so really figure out if those 90 or so cards many of which are commons you are willing to spend say $20 x 90 = nearly $2,000...

[Matthew80]

Originally Posted by mintacular

I'd be very surprised if you can find decent mid-grade '53s even VGEX ones for $4-5 in graded form, unless you get lucky and buy a huge lot that flies under the radar. Keep in mind that most VGEX-EX-EX+ graded cards cost the seller nearly $10 to get graded and very few are willing to take a lost and sell them at $5/ea.

My mistake. I meant '56 cards, not '53 cards, although $4-5 may still be a bit too ambitious for '56 cards.

Originally Posted by mintacular

Also, I think it is somewhat silly to be buying mid-grade cards in TPG holders. In general, the point of having a card encased in plastic is that it is in exceptional quality and should be slabbed (for post-war cards anyway) or is a highly counterfeited issue that you simply want verification of its authenticity. OR you see a card in a TPG that has a technical mid-grade card that is actually much better quality (eye appeal) but can be had at the numerical grade average.

I'm in the latter camp: looking for mid-grades with good centering, no qualifiers, no giant piece of bubble gum stuck on the front...

The prospect of slogging through dozens of $20+ commons is not attractive to me at all. I may go slumming and dip into G to VG for those, if such cards can be eye-appealing.

I will indeed keep thinking this over, and I'll probably buy a card or two from various sets, both raw and slabbed, to see what's I like most.

Sincere thanks for the advice.