Graded 1s vs. Raw cards

[Cozumeleno]

If you were buying a mostly mid-grade set, would you prefer to see a card that was graded a PSA/SGC 1 Poor or a raw card that, realistically, may still grade a 1 or 1.5, but was raw with the card being open to some degree of interpretation?

I certainly realize a couple of things here:

1. Appearance is the determining factor - you're buying the card, not the holder. I'm just talking in generalities, though.

2. For expensive cards, graded is the preference. For the high-dollar stuff, I realize that a graded one is extremely attractive to a buyer considering it greatly reduces the chance that it is counterfeit. But for this purpose, I'm talking like a 1933 Goudey common or something in that ballpark where someone isn't spending a boatload of money.

Some of the lower grade cards in my sets, which mostly grade G-EX as a whole, are PSA 1s. Personally, I think a few of them are more attractive than that grade, so I'm thinking of just cracking them open. But I guess my question is, if you were buying a mostly mid-grade set, would you prefer that the few lower-grade cards be graded 1s or raw?

[packs]

If authenticity wasn't a factor, I'd rather have raw low-grade cards.

[t206blogcom]

I'd prefer raw unless they're high-dollar cards, or if they're rare (for better protection).

[packs]

There's something to be said for being able to touch the card. I've got a few low-grade T206s that I love a lot more than the graded copies I have.

[Sean]

Originally Posted by packs

There's something to be said for being able to touch the card. I've got a few low-grade T206s that I love a lot more than the graded copies I have.

+1

[brob28]

For high dollar cards I prefer graded cards which I can always "free" when I receive them. The shortcomings of the TPG's are well documented, but I still like the extra bit of assurance that someone else has looked at the card and agrees with me that it is legit and unaltered.

[steve B]

I'd prefer "raw" to graded for lower condition commons. Most of my collection was bought pre-grading, and is lower grade. I don't really see the point of grading stuff with paperloss or big creases unless it's special enough that authenticity is a concern. Of all the stuff I've had graded the only ones that I didn't think would get a decent grade were the T206 blank backs and CB Cobb. I pretty much knew what they'd grade but did it in case they need to be sold someday.

Of course, being a bit lazy if I get a card that's lower grade but already graded I leave it that way.

Steve B

[BicycleSpokes]

All else equal, personally I would go with a graded 1. They are generally displayed attractively, and often graded 1s can be found that cost about the same as the grading itself (though I have never understood why they were submitted in the first place.)

Plus you can always free it, should you want to.


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[dabigyankeeman]

On a common Goudey, raw would be fine. I like to buy graded on the real expensive cards to verify authenticity and then i remove the card from the slab.

[Bigb13]

This is why I am not a fan of grading this is VG? image.jpg

[Bigb13]

I would rather this poor thenimage.jpg

[Cozumeleno]

Originally Posted by Bigb13

This is why I am not a fan of grading this is VG? Attachment 174529

That's one thing I've noticed with the grading companies. While pretty strict, they seem to let rounding of corners go pretty far while still giving a 3.

I have a Johnny Mize 1948 Bowman in my set that has literally a tiny chunk missing of the card. It's not huge - maybe like 1/12" or something. SGC clearly considered it more corner wear instead of part of the card missing and graded it a 4 VGEX (50, I think).

I understand that they can't be completely consistent all the time, but something like that is pretty ridiculous. VG means something different to everybody, I guess. But I think the Beckett description has always been pretty good - it essentially says some corner wear along with a hairline crease is acceptable. That qualifies more as Good or Fair-Good to me (assuming no creases/writing/etc.).

[Bigb13]

I rather have the PSA1 in this case

[Bestdj777]

I won't spend more for something in a holder, but given the option between cards with similar eye appeal for a similar price I will almost always choose the graded version. I like the added protection that the slab adds. I don't have to worry about the card falling out of a toploader, and if I get up for a minute when sorting my cards I don't have to worry if my dog decides to run across my card collection.

[rdixon1208]

I prefer raw over graded...especially for low grade commons. I guess it goes back to my childhood, but I still love to put my cards in a binder.

[David W]

If it is a high dollar card that has been reprinted/counterfeited (33 Goudey Ruth for instance) probably graded.

If it is a more common low dollar card (33 Goudey Ernie Orsatti) probably raw.

2 things about grading
1 - It makes it a lot easier to sell cards on Ebay without the buyer worrying nearly as much about the authenticity.

2 - Grading has become a "Crutch" to use so people don't have to actually know or learn the difference between a real one and a reprint.

[dabigyankeeman]

Originally Posted by rdixon1208

I prefer raw over graded...especially for low grade commons. I guess it goes back to my childhood, but I still love to put my cards in a binder.

Me too, i have popped so many cards out of slabs so that I could put them into a binder, my whole collection is in binders.