PSA submission advice

[Tay1038]

Hi,

I’m hoping I can get some PSA submission feedback from the experts on the board.

Q1:
I have multiple low grade (PSA 1-2 equivalent) vintage HOF rookie cards that are signed by the athlete. Generally, is it better in my situation to use the PSA dual card grade and auto grade service, or just the auto grade with the card description on the label i.e, “1952 Topps Mickey Mantle” and have the card verified for authenticity and scored as “AUTHENTIC” for the card? I think the label would read something like:

1952 Topps Mickey Mantle #311
Authentic
Auto 10

As opposed to

1952 Topps Mickey Mantle #311
PR 1
Auto 10

I see the frequent in the hobby being just the Auto Grade and Card described as authentic for low grade cards of such but no numerical grade for the card. I think it would be obvious if it was a high grade card to get both scored with a numerical grade, as the numerical grade for the card carries value for high grades. What to do in your opinion for low grade cards? Is their a base minimum grade i.e, PSA 4 or higher, where it would make more sense to get the dual numerical grade for both the card and auto?


Q2: I have previous slabbed PSADNA blue label with auto grades. I’ve been trying to input the cert numbers in the submission form for REHOLDER service however When I enter in the current certification number in the submission form I keep getting an error message, “please enter a valid cert #” even though my cards show up in the PSA DNA database under their certification number. Is there something that I am doing wrong? Or is this something that happens with old blue labels? How do I go about correcting this so that I can submit for re-holder?

[Snowman]

I would say it depends on which is more valuable; the card or the signature. If it's a 1952 Topps Mantle, then it's worth getting the dual service option. People care about the card grade too much on that one, and it can make a big difference in the hammer price at auction. However, if the card isn't worth much on its own, without the signature, then I would probably just opt for the auto grade only. The fact that the cards are in relatively poor condition overall though does make for an argument of just getting the auto grade only on it though. I think my default would be to do auto only grade on everything but the holy grail type cards. I would do dual for a 52T Mantle or a 51B Mantle, or maybe a 54T Aaron, but I wouldn't do it for a Killebrew RC or a Koufax RC or something like that. I'd just do Auto only for those. But I don't think there's a "right" answer here. Just personal preference. I doubt it makes much of a difference on the hammer price for anything other than a 52 Mantle or something of similar value.

[Snowman]

I also think it might depend on the how nice the auto is. If it's a really clean-looking 10 auto, it might be worth leaning toward the "Authentic Auto 10" slab option. I do think those look nice. Especially when the damage to the card itself is obvious. That's what I did with my signed Bo Jackson RC. The card itself probably gets a 7 from PSA due to the white corners, which for this card means it's not really even worth grading if it weren't for the auto. So I just opted for the auto-only grade on it. I do like how it looks though in this slab. I think it would be an eye sore if it read "NM 7, AUTO 10". Everyone can see the damaged corners on it, and nobody would buy it for the card itself, they'd be buying it for the auto, although its NFS




I think I should post more cards more often. I can already see how much busy work I've created for BODA every time I post a slabbed card in my collection. Those guys follow me around like Erin Andrews' stalker. They watch me here, they watch me on poker sites, they watch me on instagram, YouTube, eBay, you name it. I guarantee they look up every single cert number within 100 yards of every card I've ever posted LOL. "We're gonna catch this guy doing something nefarious! I just know it!" LOLOL I think I should start messing with them. Just block out one number from a cert next time. That'll keep 'em busy.

[felada]

Only dual grades can be added to the registry and with PSA the registry is king. It doesn’t cost anything more for the dual grade. The mantle would be better off with a a dual grade. For some the authentic will imply that the card has been altered.

[Snowman]

Originally Posted by felada

Only dual grades can be added to the registry and with PSA the registry is king. It doesn’t cost anything more for the dual grade. The mantle would be better off with a a dual grade. For some the authentic will imply that the card has been altered.

The 'Authentic' does not imply altered at PSA. It will say "Authentic Altered" if they think it has been altered. If it just says "Authentic", that means they didn't grade it, as opposed to SGC where "A" implies Altered.

[Republicaninmass]

If its is guaranteed a psa 1, then submit dual grade, auto grade only. No need to let a psa 1 dirty your flip.


Those need to be for a "crossover" to psa, from psa/dna. "Cards previously encapsulated by psa"

[ASF123]

I do like how it looks though in this slab. I think it would be an eye sore if it read "NM 7, AUTO 10".

So...it looks great in a slab that says "AUTHENTIC, AUTO 10." But the exact same card, in a slab that is identical except that it says "NM 7" instead of "AUTHENTIC," would an eyesore? That's where we're at in this "hobby" these days?

[notfast]

Originally Posted by ASF123

So...it looks great in a slab that says "AUTHENTIC, AUTO 10." But the exact same card, in a slab that is identical except that it says "NM 7" instead of "AUTHENTIC," would an eyesore? That's where we're at in this "hobby" these days?

On somewhat modern cards, yes.

I just submitted some 2018-2020 signed rookies for dual service but only getting card grade on one that I think has a shot at a 10/10. The rest will be auth/auto grade which I believe should all be 10 autos.

On vintage stuff, lower grade with auto grade is more readily acceptable.

[steve B]

NM7 Auto 10 would always bug me.

But only because it wasn't 7MK

[Tay1038]

Thank you everyone for the feedback. Greatly appreciated