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#1
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Quote:
The other fundamental difference in the scenarios is that you almost HAVE to open the pack to find out it's no good (yes I know there are other ways to check a wax pack but a good resealer knows how to re-create them) this card DIDN'T HAVE TO BE CRACKED! Or had I mentioned that already? For the record I have crossed cards in other company holders, as have others who have actually reported their results in threads on Net54. I tend to do about as well predicting the grades as I do with raw cards which is generally fairly well. Oh, and you are ignoring a lot of my post
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Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions Last edited by Aquarian Sports Cards; 11-08-2019 at 10:13 PM. |
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#2
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Four phrases I nave coined that sum up today's hobby: No consequences. Stuff trumps all. The flip is the commoodity. Animal Farm grading. Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 11-08-2019 at 10:24 PM. |
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#3
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1- it’s not OK on general principle to crack a card, submit for regrading and return when the card is “A”, or is not the grade the submitter wants. No honest person disputes this.
2- it’s not OK to sell a card in an inferior holder that has been rejected from other grading services as not being a number grade, without disclosing as much in the sale. No honest person disputes this. The OP is only one they knows if #2 is true, to me it seems pretty obvious. If so, I’d suggest recognizing the karma in play. Reach out to the buyer and negotiate a reasonable purchase price based on a “A” grade. Many of the previous posts illustrate the reasons why he should want to put and end to this, as should the OP. If the OP and buyer are both a bit unhappy with the result then that’s probably the best result. |
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